Lisbon, Seven Hills, One Tram

Lisbon resists a flat map; the city sits on seven hills, and every miradouro gives a different angle. The program picks three that the daytime crowds don't find.

Don't trust GPS in Alfama's narrow lanes — getting a little lost is part of the place. If fado drifts out of a window, stopping to listen counts as part of the plan.

Late-afternoon light turns the azulejo tiles a different colour; we build the rest of the day around seeing them at their best hour.